Siem Reap really is a place of stark contrast. One example of this is definitely the socio-economics of the place: wealth comfortably abodes side-by-side with abject poverty. To illustrate, you will find a landmine victim walking on his thong-clad hands down the street whilst an Audi's horn beeps to alert him of its presence. Another example can be found in its history. The decaying remnants of Khmer antiquity blend with the shabby dignity of Cambodia's French colonial past, and provide impetus for a thriving tourist industry which creates much needed jobs. The flip side of this however, is the commercialisation of everything and everyone exploding out into the streets in all it's 'Western glory' as the past gives way to progress. It's like someone grabbing you by the head and saying, 'look at this, look at this before it's gone!' And in the next breath saying, 'wow, I'm loving these ridiculously cheap prices on everything, but I'm not paying 75c for a beer here when I can get it for 50c around the corner!' Or, the fact that after finishing your 50c beers, you are offered everything and anything (sex, drugs, other) as you meander back to the hotel. The reliance on the tourist dollar (and I mean the Dollar as nobody trades in the local currency) is huge and I find myself wondering whether the tourist dollar is improving Cambodia by providing much needed employment opportunities or compounding societal issues with moral degradation. Anyway, enough of the heavy stuff...
The breeze blowing on my face and the blended scents of construction, rubbish, Khmer cooking and heat enveloped my senses on the trip from the airport. The Tuk Tuk ride was a welcomed breath of fresh air after spending a few hours in a compressed cabin thousands of metres above the ground.
After checking into the guesthouse in the centre of town...
...and chilling a little, I unpacked and headed out for stroll, a bite and a quiet beer in the afternoon.
I chilled at a sidewalk cafe watching people go by, Skyping home and enjoying a quiet afternoon beer. It was interesting that in the middle of the throng of tourists and beggars I strike up a chat with a couple of executives from the capital starting an Audi dealership. Really? Audi in Cambodia? It was hard to believe there was even a market here. But the closer you look, the more you see the ever-increasing divide between the privileged and the not; the shame is that the socio-economic 'ceiling' is seemingly rising at a much faster rate than the 'floor'. The guys were lovely, Darren a 30ish Australian with plenty to say about everything and his companion from the UK. Together they have racked up 16 years living in Cambodia and only have positive stories to share - very nice to hear.
The 50c beers continued to come and the conversation moved from Audi's branding strategy in Cambodia to soccer and the Ashes. Time eventually came to a head and the bill read $6.50 - Vietnamese rice paper rolls and drinks... We said our farewells and I headed home.
The night ended uneventfully despite propositions of sex and drugs in the 200 metre stroll back to the hotel. I wonder if the comparative price of sex and drugs in Cambodia mirrors the price of beer. Or does the residual 'take away' and consequent hospital bills bring it back to parity? Anyway, another day down and until the next time...
R
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